Vieux Château Certan is in a league of its own with its very clear inimitable house style and luxurious quality. The wines have incredible dimension and balance. Typically, the wines are round, supple and richly flavored with beautiful aromatic complexity, fine and abundant tannins, superb fruit definition and mineral length. Clay substrates played an important role in maintaining sufficient soil moisture. Olivier Berouet of Ch Petrus describes 2016 as “a vintage that can only be compared to itself”. For example, would a wine critic dare to give a fifth growth a higher score than a first growth? And of course there is the 1855 classification, which may have a moderating effect. Fear of not doing things well could also be a factor. will also give rise to divergent opinions. Cultural references, experience, language, personal loyalties, etc. An understanding of the winemaking house's background, style and sub-regional characteristics also helps to provide an overall impression. With so many wines, the nuances can be infinitesimal, certainly from a linguistic point of view, and therefore difficult to really differentiate. Color, aromatic complexity, concentration, tannin quality, oak and acidities are key elements and we are all looking for a patterned balance, an individual voice or something to believe in. However, it doesn't take a genius to understand the quality of a very good vintage. This is arguably a growing problem with leading wine writers trying to outdo each other. Tasting earlier could in theory compromise or distort the opinion. Primeur tasting generally takes place after the end of the malolactic fermentation of the wines. It's worth putting everything in context. Everything points to an early campaign, but it will likely last forever, such is the tactical perspective and hierarchical nature of this beast. Hard-working James Suckling and James Molesworth of Wine Spectator, like the horses of the apocalypse, have already walked through the starting gates and made their prophecies known to the world. Nevertheless, with Robert Parker now quite far from the scene, there seems to be a merry-go-round of position among ambitious American wine critics in particular. There is no longer a clear individual to impress. The affable consultant oenologist Michel Rolland, great master of the aesthetics of taste, has clearly evolved with the times. The 2016 versus the 2015 is like comparing a racehorse to a sloth, although vintage conditions would normally land on something similar in style. Its long alliance with overly sweet sweet wine is over, it seems. Even Château Pavie, once the poster child of the Robert Parker era, has raised the white flag. This very contemporary and sparkling 2016 vintage seems to reflect the freshness and dynamism of a new era of wine. Chateau owners, winemakers and business leaders seem to be more enlightened and interested in the world around them, even Australia. This energy, this renewal and this enthusiasm are great for Bordeaux. Eduard Moueix of JP Moueix is clearly on the rise, and the owners of Ch Angelus have passed on their duties to the next generation. Philippe Bascaules returned from California to Ch Margaux. There is a changing of the guard with new generations beginning to make their mark at all levels of the industry and wine production. The 2016 Primeurs are also very different from previous years. The market today is around 280 million euros per year, which illustrates the resilience, power and track record of Bordeaux Grand Cru Classé wines. Even China's interest has increased again. Nonetheless, it took five years for the market to reset. Self-reliance and denial always go hand in hand. During the filming of Red Obsession in 2011, the Bordeaux wine market had become a classic bubble, even if the main actors still believed otherwise. During this extraordinary period, Bordeaux prices began to rise at a faster rate than Sydney Real Estate. Each man and his dog, with a connection to the government, curry favor or accept gifts with the Grand Cru Bordeaux, particularly the Premiers Crus. At that time, China was at the zenith of its extraordinary rise of fine wines where the highest estates, particularly Château Lafite, had become a backwater currency. I haven't been this excited about the prospects of wines this young since the remarkable 20 vintages. The 2016 Bordeaux vintage will be remembered as one of the great years of the 21st century.
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